Protect the barrier function of your skin!
Claudia Budu Ph.D.
The selectively permeable skin barrier is the top most layer of the skin (so called "dead skin layer"), which has a tremendous role in protection against dehydration and variable environmental changes. This layer contains cells without nuclei comprised of keratin filaments sank in a lipid milieu of free cholesterol, cholesterol ionic (sulfate cholesterol), ceramide, and other free fatty acids. The role of each of the constituents of this layer is still an open question.
One thing is certain! Any modification in the skin barrier's equilibrium may trigger different skin conditions such a dryness, itchiness or dermatitis.
Preservation of the qualities of the skin barrier became a necessity these days when we encounter so many pollution sources around us. In order to maintain a healthy and active skin barrier you should moisturize your skin on a daily basis. There are many important qualities that a moisturizer has to achieve in order to protect the skin barrier.
One of the important qualities of a moisturizer is to bring moisture and keep it there. For this purpose every moisturizer has to contain humectants, preferable natural, such as vegetable glycerine. The glycerine can attract water and trigger the elasticity of the skin.
Fatty acids on the other hand, have a major role in retaining the moisture in. However, a high concentration of fatty acids without any humectant in a skin care formulation increases the sensitivity of the skin barrier to different chemicals. For example sodium lauryl sulfate, one of the major ingredients in synthetic cleansers can easily penetrate the skin barrier in the above conditions, leading to cell damage.
To strengthen the barrier function some fatty acids are more important than other. For example linoleic and gamma linoleic acids, induce the biosynthesis of ceramide , a skin barrier constituent , which improves radically the barrier function.
Another quality for a well formulated moisturizer is sunscreen protection. Antioxidants such as vitamin C, Vitamin E or Coenzyme Q have an important role in UV protection. However for a photoaging damaged skin these only ingredients are not sufficient to stop or reverse the aging process. Vitamin A is also required to enhance the biosynthesis of the new skin cells. On the other hand too high concentration of vitamin A can induce wrinkles.
To activate the skin barrier process of regeneration the most upper layer of the cells has to be removed periodically. The removal of the cells can be rapidly obtained by peeling procedure. The stronger the peeling procedure you choose the longer time is needed for the skin barrier to regenerate. By using mild peeling procedure the removal of the cells is limited to some extent to those cells ready to be shed. In this case, the regeneration is naturally occurred, is not induced or forced, this keeping the upper skin layer protected.
In conclusion:
Don't rush for a moisturizer, which claims to contain one extraordinary active ingredient! One or even two active ingredients are not enough to provide a healthy skin and protective skin barrier. The active ingredients have to be as many as they can maintain all the skin needs for hydration, regeneration, rejuvenation and protection. The potential active ingredients have to interact with each other in a complete synergy to provide the maximum strengths and a high quality skin care product.
Don't rush for an extreme peeling alternative. Look for a less aggressive, more natural way of improving your skin and strengthening your skin's barrier function.
After all, your skin has to be prepared not for a moment of nice pretence it has to remain healthy for your entire life.
About the author:
Claudia Budu has a Ph.D. in cell biology and a Master in
biochemistry. Everything that she has learned from elderly
people and with more than 20 years of scientific expertise
resulted in the creations of TelBari - Active Herbal Cosmetics
(http://www.telbari.com), a revolutionary approach in natural
skin care.